Few gemstones offer as many colors as tourmaline. Raspberry-red rubellite, inky indicolite blue, forest green, electric Paraiba-type aqua, and the famous pink-and-green "watermelon" slice all belong to one mineral family, which is why tourmaline is a favorite of collectors and a rewarding choice for anyone who wants a colored stone that feels personal. The name is thought to come from the Sinhalese tura mali, often translated as "stone of mixed colors," and it fits.
This guide explains how to tell the main tourmaline varieties apart, what to expect from each in clarity, cut and treatment, and how to choose a stone that you will enjoy wearing for years. If you are shopping for an October birthstone, our October birthstone guide to opal and tourmaline pairs well with this one.
What Is Tourmaline?
Tourmaline is not a single gemstone but a group of complex boron silicate minerals. Most of the faceted gems you will see are elbaite, the species responsible for pink, red, blue, green and many bi-colored stones. Other group members appear less often as gems: dravite (brown, and the source of chrome tourmaline), uvite, liddicoatite and the black species schorl. Our tourmaline education page and the wider gemstone types overview put the family in context.
In gemological terms, tourmaline has a Mohs hardness of 7 to 7.5, a refractive index of roughly 1.62 to 1.64 and a specific gravity of about 3.06. It is also pleochroic, doubly refractive and pyroelectric: it can develop a static charge when warmed or rubbed, which is why a tourmaline may attract a little dust.
The Main Tourmaline Varieties and Colors
Rubellite: Pink to Raspberry Red
Rubellite is the red end of the pink-tourmaline spectrum, colored mainly by manganese. The best examples show a saturated raspberry or purplish red that holds its color under different lights. Where "pink tourmaline" ends and "rubellite" begins is a matter of trade judgment, and no fixed line exists, so judge the stone by eye. Rubellite tends to be more included than other colors, so the real question is whether inclusions are visible and whether they affect durability. You can compare current examples in our rubellite tourmaline collection, and our pink gemstones guide shows how rubellite sits beside pink sapphire and pink spinel.
Indicolite: Blue Tourmaline
Indicolite refers to blue tourmaline, from dusty steel blue to deep teal and inky navy. Truly pure blue is uncommon, and many indicolites lean green or gray, so look closely at how the hue reads in daylight as well as indoors. Indicolite is usually cleaner than rubellite and is often cut in step shapes that show off its depth. Browse the indicolite tourmaline collection or see how it compares in our blue gemstones guide.
Paraiba-Type: The Electric Blues and Greens
Paraiba-type tourmaline is copper-bearing elbaite that glows in neon blue, violet-blue and blue-green. It was first found in Paraiba, Brazil in the late 1980s, and similar material was later discovered in Nigeria and Mozambique. The Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee guidance allows "Paraiba" to describe copper-bearing tourmaline of these colors regardless of where it was mined, with origin stated separately, which is why we write "Paraiba-type" to keep the distinction clear. Because copper content, color and size drive value so strongly, a lab report is a sensible request on any significant purchase. See what is currently available in the Paraiba tourmaline collection.
Green, Chrome and Bi-Color Tourmaline
Green tourmaline (verdelite) ranges from mint to deep forest green, while chrome tourmaline is a green dravite colored by chromium and vanadium, prized for a vivid, emerald-like hue. Bi-color and parti-color stones, including the pink-and-green "watermelon" pattern, are cut so the color zones show clearly. For more green options across species, see our green gemstones guide.
How to Judge Tourmaline Quality
Color and Pleochroism
Color is the main driver of both beauty and value. Tourmaline is strongly pleochroic, so cutters orient dark crystals with the table parallel to the long axis to lighten the face-up color, and lighter crystals the opposite way to build depth. When you evaluate a stone, tilt it and view it under different lighting. Even, lively color is better than a stone that looks patchy or sleepy in one direction.
Clarity
Clarity expectations depend on the color. Blue and green tourmalines are typically cleaner, while pink and red stones often carry fine fluid-filled feathers and hollow growth tubes. A stone that is eye-clean for its color is generally a good target, and a few inclusions in rubellite are normal. Watch for feathers that reach the surface or sit close to the girdle, which can affect durability.
Cut and Shape
Because tourmaline is often found as long crystals, many stones are elongated. Ovals, emerald cuts and elongated cushions suit the rough and show color well, and our oval cut gemstones collection is a good starting point. Our gemstone shapes guide explains how outline changes the look in a setting. A well-cut stone is symmetrical, has no large window or dark extinction area and shows even color across the face.
Treatment and Disclosure
Heat is commonly used on Paraiba-type tourmaline to refine color, some pink tourmaline can be heated or irradiated, and included stones may be fracture-filled. None of this is unusual, but it should always be disclosed because it affects value and care. We state a stone's treatment wherever it is known. For a full overview, read our guide to gemstone treatments.
Wearing and Caring for Tourmaline
At 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, tourmaline suits everyday jewelry when it is set with some thought. Protective settings such as bezels and halos reduce the risk of chipping in rings, and pendants and earrings are naturally lower-risk. Clean with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners for stones with visible fractures or fracture filling. You can browse ready-made options in our tourmaline jewelry collection, or explore a custom design through our bespoke service.
Choosing Your Tourmaline
Start with color, since it is the quality that will make you reach for the stone every day. Then decide how much clarity matters for that color, pick a shape that suits your setting and ask about treatment. Whichever variety you prefer, the full tourmalines collection lets you compare them side by side, and our team is happy to help if you would like a particular color or size sourced through our sourcing request form.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between rubellite and pink tourmaline?
Both are pink-to-red elbaite tourmaline, and the line between them is a matter of trade convention rather than chemistry. Rubellite is the name used for stones with a stronger, deeper red-to-purplish-red or raspberry color, while lighter and softer pinks are simply sold as pink tourmaline. Laboratories can describe the color, but where pink ends and rubellite begins is a judgment call, so look at the stone itself. You can compare both in our rubellite tourmaline collection.
Is tourmaline durable enough for an engagement ring?
Tourmaline rates 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, which is comparable to quartz and suitable for rings worn with reasonable care. It has no cleavage plane, but it can chip or fracture if struck hard, and included stones are more vulnerable. Protective settings such as bezels or halos and a lower-profile design help for daily wear. Many people choose tourmaline for pendants and earrings, where knocks are rare. Our tourmaline jewelry collection shows how different settings protect the stone.
What is Paraiba-type tourmaline?
Paraiba-type tourmaline is copper-bearing elbaite in vivid blue, violet-blue or blue-green shades, first found in Paraiba, Brazil in the late 1980s and later in Nigeria and Mozambique. Laboratories use trace-element analysis to confirm copper and to identify origin. We use the term Paraiba-type so the color and chemistry are clear while the origin is stated separately. Because values vary widely, a lab report is a sensible request on any significant purchase. See the Paraiba tourmaline collection for what is currently available.
Is tourmaline heat treated or irradiated?
Some of it is. Heat is commonly used on Paraiba-type tourmaline to refine its blue or green color, and some pink tourmaline has been irradiated or heated to adjust its color. Clean, well-colored stones with no treatment are also found, particularly in the more common colors. Treatment affects value and care, so it should always be disclosed. We state a stone's treatment wherever it is known, and our treatments guide explains what is considered normal for each gem.
Why does my tourmaline look different from different angles?
Tourmaline is strongly pleochroic, meaning it shows different colors or depths of color depending on the viewing direction through the crystal. Cutters use this by orienting dark stones so the table shows the lighter direction, and pale stones so it shows the deeper one. You may see a slightly different shade when you tilt the stone or turn a ring. This is a natural optical property, not a defect, and it is one reason tourmaline can look so lively.
Which tourmaline color is best?
There is no single best color, only the one that suits you and your budget. Rubellite offers rich raspberry reds, indicolite offers inky blues and teals, chrome and green varieties give a deep forest color, and Paraiba-type stones glow in electric blue and aqua. For a first purchase, look for even color, a face-up appearance that is lively without being too dark, and clarity suited to the color. Browse the full tourmalines collection to compare colors side by side.
